A New Holiday Favorite

I have always loved the holidays because they bring everyone together. Coworkers gather for parties, Friends make extra time for special restaurant dinners, and Families travel to be together, even if it is just for a few nights or one special meal. The time between Thanksgiving and New Years always passes too quickly; there are always more things to do than there is time to get everything done. But that sense of quickened time makes the season all the more precious, the time with loved ones all the more special.



For me, this season centers around food: which favorite meals to make for company, what to bake for friends, and especially where to pick up take out after shopping and before baking, because there just isn’t always time for making dinner in the midst of it! I love baking and sharing what I’ve made with people, watching them smile with anticipation as they open a package and smell the spicy scent of gingerbread. It brings such happiness to make someone smile, especially during such a busy time of year.

I have a few recipes that I make nearly every year, but I also like to try to new things. I collect pages from magazines or from online for a year, waiting until the big rush of baking starts just after Thanksgiving. My holiday dinners are pretty much set in stone—my Grandmother’s Lasagna Verde and my mother-in-law’s Norwegian Meatballs on Christmas Eve and roast beef on Christmas Day. Especially this year when we’ll be in Texas without family, these recipes will be our link to our families in another place.



As much as I love tradition, it is fun to try new things and eventually create new traditions. This year, in honor of living in a new part of the country, I decided to make something more Texan to add to the mix. At this time of year, there are gorgeous Texas pecans at the farmer’s market and in the grocery stores, so I wanted to make something invoking pecan pie, but that were sturdy enough to package with cookies.



Enter Pecan Bourbon Squares. I love the dark, strong flavor of molasses and the warm spice of cinnamon and cloves, and I believe that all pecan pie is improved with a healthy dose of bourbon. Everything works together to offset the sweet nuttiness of the pecans, and since they have just the right amount of salt, they have that sweet/savory flavor that makes them extremely addictive. I’m sure this is one recipe that will be in the repertoire for many years to come.



Bourbon Pecan Squares

These look lovely in seasonal muffin cups if you are packaging them for gifts, and they will stay good in a sealed container and/or in the fridge for several days (the flavors actually meld and it tastes better the next day). This recipe freezes well, so if you’re getting a head start on baking, just cool completely, cut into squares and package in a freezer bag with sheets of parchment beneath each layer.

Crust:
¾ cup pecans, toasted and chopped
9 Tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into small chunks (1 stick + 1 Tablespoon)
1 ½ cups flour
1/3 cup packed light brown sugar
1 ½ teaspoon kosher salt

Filling:
1 cup + 2 Tablespoons packed light brown sugar
1/3 cup molasses
½ cup light corn syrup
6 tablespoons butter, melted
¼ cup Bourbon
1 ½ Tablepoons Vanilla
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
3 large eggs, beaten
1 ½ cups toasted and chopped pecans

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees with a rack in the middle of oven. Line a 12” x 17” jelly roll pan with aluminum foil, leaving some hanging over the edges. Spray foil generously with cooking spray.

For the crust, combine the pecans, butter, flour sugar and salt in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Press the mixture evenly into the prepared pan. Bake for about 30 minutes, checking at 25 minutes, until lightly golden.

While the crust is baking, make the filling. Whisk together the sugar, molasses, corn syrup, butter, bourbon, vanilla, salt and eggs in a medium bowl. Stir until the mixture is well combined and the sugar has dissolved. Stir in the pecans, mixing until well-coated.

When the crust is finished, immediately pour the mixture into the pan over the hot crust and return to oven. Bake until the top is browned and the filling is well set, about 30 more minutes, again checking for doneness at 20 or 25 minutes; you don’t want to burn the pecans but the filling does need to be set or the bars will be runny. Cool on a rack in the pan until completely cooled and set.

Remove the bars out of the pan by lifting the foil evenly, and set on a cutting board. Remove all of the foil, taking care that none tears and remains on the crust. Cut into 1 inch squares; makes 40-50 squares.

A good Delicata Squash recipe...

I have had this recipe all typed up for more than two weeks, and kept waiting for the right story to tell with it. It would have made a nice, light side dish for Thanksgiving, but I just didn’t get around to finishing this in time. It’s a busy time of year for work, which is a terrible excuse, but there you go. Instead of devoting my spare bits of free time to writing, I plopped onto the couch and watched Glee on my TiVo.



I suppose the story for this one is simple: I liked it. It was really good, really easy, and I thought you might like it, too. I’m sorry it’s too late for Thanksgiving, but perhaps it will be enjoyed during this hectic holiday season when healthy eating sometimes seems completely impossible.



Cider Glazed Delicata Squash

I used mulled cider for this because that is what I like to drink; any fresh apple cider or juice would work fine. If you don't have wine open to cook with, you can use a half cup of cider instead.

1 medium Delicata Squash, peeled, seeded, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced
3 tablespoons Olive Oil, divided
¼ cup white wine
¼ cup Apple Cider
salt and pepper to taste

Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add half of olive oil to pan, then add half of squash and arrange in a single layer in the pan. Allow squash to brown, about 5 minutes on the first side and 2-3 minutes on the second side. Do not move them around too much so they can get a nice sear. They will cook again, so they don’t need to be cooked all the way at this point.

When the first batch is done, remove them to a bowl, and repeat with the second batch. When the second batch is finished, add the first batch back in, and deglaze with white wine. Cook for a minute, scraping the browned bits from the bottom of the pan, and then add the cider. Toss the squash frequently for a few more minutes until the liquid has reduced and you have a nice glaze on the squash.

Elevating the Lowly Lentil

I did not grow up eating a lot of lentils because my mother doesn’t care for them. It actually wasn’t until I was in my early twenties that I even tried them, but when I finally did, it was love at first taste. I’ve always been a healthy eater, so it was probably as much a philosophical love as a gustatory one. Lentils are packed with protein, fiber and vitamin B, and have an intriguing earthy flavor. They also take on other flavors quite well, making them somewhat of a chameleon in the kitchen.

Green and Red lentils make lovely soup as they break down and become creamy while cooking, and I love the bright color and rich flavor of a hearty red lentil soup. But it is the French Green Lentil, or Le Puy Lentils for the region in France they come from, that I really love. These lentils look more brown than green, and are probably one of the most boring looking ingredients, cooked or raw. But for something that looks like little pebbles, these lentils are surprisingly versatile and delicious. Unlike their more colorful counterparts, they hold their shape when cooking, so they can serve as a base for other ingredients. The classic dish of salmon over lentils is one of my favorite meals.



Despite their versatility and nutritional benefits, you don't see a lot of lentil main courses featured in food magazines or restaurant menus. I think it is time for the hard-working lentil to get some recognition in its own right. They don’t really need another protein for flavor since they can take on whatever flavor you are in the mood for. They're cheap and they cook relatively quickly so they're great for a weeknight dinner on a budget.

Today, the weather was cool but the sun was shining, the best kind of fall weather. I wanted a hearty dish that wasn’t heavy to match that cool but sunny weather. Lentils fit the bill perfectly. I sautéed some carrots, onion and celery with baking spices, smoked paprika and chili powder. Cinnamon added an earthy sweetness, while the paprika added a nice smokiness, and the chili gave a subtle heat. I stirred in some ribbons of collard greens for some color and for a nutritional boost. It turned out to be a perfect one-pot meal. I’ll happily let Lentils move beyond side dish to steal the show from now on.



Lentils and Collard Greens

1 tablespoon olive oil
2 medium carrots, chopped
2 ribs celery, chopped
½ onion, chopped
½ teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon chili powder
½ teaspoon smoked paprika
¼ teaspoon nutmeg
3 cloves garlic, minced
½ cup white wine
1 cup French Green Lentils
3 cups vegetable or chicken stock
1 pound collard greens, stems removed, cut into ½ inch ribbons
Salt and Pepper

Heat a saucepan over medium heat. Add olive oil, and sauté carrot, celery and onion, stirring to coat with oil. Add cinnamon, chili, paprika and nutmeg, and stir to coat. Cook veggies until onions are translucent and spices are very fragrant, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook for one minute.

Deglaze pan with white wine, and cook until wine is reduced by half. Stir in lentils, then add stock and bring to a boil. When liquid is boiling, reduce heat to a simmer, stir in collard greens, and cover. Simmer for 40 minutes, or until lentils are tender. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

There may be some liquid remaining, but if you have any leftovers don’t strain this off, as it absorbs as everything cools and allows this dish to reheat well.

Lazy Days

There are days that I love to spend hours in the kitchen, and then there are days that I want to eat something that tastes like I spent hours in the kitchen but that actually materialized out of thin air. In other words, there are motivated-to-cook days and there are lazy days.

The other day was a lazy day that happened to occur right after a binge-at-the-grocery-store day. The timing could not be worse; you’re supposed to be excited to cook when you have a fridge full of food. To make matters worse, I still had a few kohlrabi from my CSA that I needed to use. I hadn’t ever had kohlrabi and was half-heartedly looking for an inspirational recipe.



Fortunately, inspiration had struck sometime several months ago, and I rediscovered a recipe I had clipped for a Savory White Bean and Vegetable Bake by Tucker Shaw from the Denver Post. I had been looking forward to making this recipe for a long time but somehow it had been edged out by something sexier, something that took more effort. But not tonight; the time had come for Savory White Bean and Vegetable Bake, or something like it.



I didn’t have half of the ingredients called for, but I did have fennel, carrots, parsnips, potatoes and of course, those kohlrabi. So I went with it, and my grocery store binge turned out to be a good thing, since I had a lot to work with. In the end, I used half as many beans, making this more of a vegetable hash with some protein. I also completely forgot the breadcrumb topping. But you know what? It didn’t need a topping. It was completely flavorful and satisfying all on its own as vegan main dish with a green salad and some cranberries on the side, and my husband enjoyed his with a roasted chicken leg and cranberries on top.



While this is definitely an easy recipe, it did call for some chopping, but it was the kind of mindless cooking that you do with the TV on and you still won’t screw it up, so I consider it a pretty lazy recipe. All in all I spent probably 20-30 minutes chopping things up and browning the veggies, but then I stuck it in the oven, poured myself a glass of wine, and plopped down on the couch. A half an hour later, dinner was served.



Winter Veggie Hash

I approached this dish with a laissez-faire attitude, not really knowing what was going to wind up in the pan when I finished. It turned out to be what I’d call a hash, which sounds like something you’d get at a cheap diner, but with tons more freshness and flavor. I kept wanting to eat more after I was full, which is always a good sign, and snacked on the leftovers straight from the fridge for the next few days.

This calls for a lot of veggies, and if halfway through chopping you worry that you should have halved the recipe, things are going swimmingly. They really cook down quite a bit, plus it made for excellent leftovers, either warmed or cold. Use whatever veggies you have on hand; I’m sure a sweet potato or diced squash would be lovely and bring great color.

2 Tablespoons Herbes de Provence
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
1 teaspoon dried mustard
3 Tablespoons Olive Oil
1 fennel bulb, chopped
1 onion, chopped coarsely
3 medium carrots, chopped into 1/3 inch pieces
2 medium parsnips, chopped into 1/3 inch pieces
2 bulbs kohlrabi, peeled and chopped into 1/3 inch pieces
4 medium Yukon Gold potatoes, chopped into 1/3 inch pieces
6-8 garlic cloves, minced
1 can of cannellini beans, drained and rinsed
2 bay leaves
2 springs of thyme
1 spring rosemary
2 cups veggie stock
Salt and Pepper
Parsley leaves, for garnish

Preheat oven to 350. In a small bowl or cup, combine the Herbes de Provence, fennel seed and mustard.

Heat a large, deep, oven-proof skillet over medium heat. Add the olive oil, and, working in batches, brown the fennel, onion, carrot, parsnip, kohlrabi, and potato. I needed two batches to cook the vegetables and get a nice brown crust on them; put the first batch in a bowl while you’re browning the second batch, then add them back in when they’re done (or use two pans if you don’t mind the extra clean up). Cook for about 10 minutes, until the vegetables are starting to soften.

Once the vegetables are softened, stir in the garlic, beans, bay leaves, mixed dried herbs and the fresh herb sprigs. Stir it all to mix well, then stir in the stock.

Transfer skillet to oven and bake for about 20 minutes, or until the veggies are all soft. Remove the bay leaves, thyme and rosemary stems. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and garnish with leaves of fresh parsley.

A cake worth cheating for...

Ahhh...I am halfway through my vegan cleanse, and feeling wonderful. I've been focusing on all of the wonderful things I can eat and not feeling at all deprived. I even survived a steakhouse dinner with coworkers without caving. All in all, things are going well.

But last weekend we had some friends in town, and I had planned on cheating a little bit. The question was, if I was going to break the momentum I had going, what was worth cheating for? The first thing that came to mind was a vague notion of a cake, something like the one on the cover of Bon Appetit in October or that appeared in Cannelle and Vanille's blog last month. I continued to ponder the many ideas...apple pie, apple tarte tatin, apple bread. I'm sure you see the theme: I was craving warm baked apples with a lightly sweet cake to bind it all together. It simply isn't fall until I've had some baked apples.



I spent a large chunk of time each day dreaming about what to make when I discovered that Dorie Greenspan's newest cookbook, Around My French Table, had been released. Birthday gift card in hand, I went straight to the bookstore to buy my copy. It should be said that I collect cookbooks the way some people collect dust bunnies: without really trying and they always accumulate faster than I realize. I ought to take a page from Heidi Swanson who started her blog to use recipes from cookbooks she already has.

In any case, I saw that there was a beautiful looking apple cake to be found in this cookbook. Even better, it was far more apples than cake, large chunks of fruit barely held together with a batter that enhances the flavor of the apples without overwhelming them. Being that I was cheating on a vegan diet, I reasoned that this recipe was less cheating than some other cakes might be. It was a lovely story to sell myself, and I bought it hook, line and sinker.



It was oh-so-worth it! I loved that we had friends visiting and we were all able to share it together. I probably enjoyed it the most, not having had many sweets in the past few weeks, my palette a little more revived after eating so cleanly, but also because I selfishly made exactly what I was craving. Topped with a lightly whipped cream spiked with vanilla, this was a perfect ending to a perfect meal with friends. I should confess that I cheated a few other times as well, but I limited it to once per day, so overall I think I did pretty well. And still, after all the sneaky bites, it is this cake that I enjoyed the most.

For now, I will enjoy eating a variety of fresh, crisp apples, and share a wonderful cake recipe with you. Soon, we can share it together.



Vanilla Apple Cake

Dorie calls her recipe "Marie-Helene's Apple Cake," but I made a few adjustments based on what I had on hand, so I'll share what I made with you. I encourage you to try it her way also; this is really a base that you can flavor as you like. Hers calls for dark rum, which I swore I had in the pantry but didn't, so I used Navan Vanilla Liqueur. I loved the boozy vanilla flavor, and was tempted to use some cinnamon, but kept it clean and simple. If you want to try cinnamon and nutmeg, I'm sure it would be delicious. I also used some whole wheat pastry flour, which I love for it's nuttier flavor, but you can use only all purpose if that is what you have on hand. I used 2 Granny Smith apples for their tartness, a McIntosh for its soft creaminess when cooked, and a Pink Lady for the tart-sweet balance.

1/2 cup Whole Wheat Pastry Flour
1/4 cup all purpose flour
3/4 teaspoon baking powder
pinch of salt
4 large apples, different kinds if possible
2 eggs
3/4 cup sugar
3 1/2 tablespoons Navan (or another vanilla liqueur)
1 stick unsalted butter, melted and cooled

Preheat oven to 350 degrees and position rack in center of oven.

Butter an 8 inch springform pan and place on a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper.

Whisk the flour, baking powder and salt in a small bowl.

Peel the apples, then cut in half, remove the cores, and cut into 1 to 2 inch chunks.

In a medium bowl, beat the eggs with a whisk until foamy. Add the sugar and whisk for another minute or so to blend. Whisk in the liqueur. Slowly add half of the flour mixture and whisk until it is incorporated. Add half of the butter, whisking to incorporate, then repeat with the rest of the flour and the remaining butter. The batter should be smooth and a little thick.

Using a rubber spatula, fold in the apples until they are evenly coated. Pour the batter into the pan, scraping the batter from the sides, and then even everything out in the pan.

Bake for 55-65 minutes, until the top is golden brown and toothpick in the center comes out clean. Let cool for 5 minutes on a rack, then carefully run a butter knife around the edges to loosen the cake and apples from the sides of the pan. Carefully remove the sides of the springform pan, taking care to make sure there is nothing stuck to it.

Cool the cake until it is a little warm or at room temperature.

Serve with a little lightly whipped cream with just a little powdered sugar and vanilla, or eat it all on its own. It would be delicious the next day also as breakfast or a mid-afternoon snack.

Store with parchment or wax paper on the cut edges and over the top, then cover with a tea towel. It will be okay at room temperature for two days, if it hangs around that long.

Soup’s On

I suppose you know autumn has officially arrived when it seems everyone has a cold. I had just about convinced myself that I was invincible and would not succumb, but then on Saturday night I had the tell-tale scratchy throat and runny nose. Fortunately, I have a very minor cold, the kind that does leave me sounding like I’m very sick so I’m getting a good amount of sympathy, but where the most intense symptom is soup-craving.



I know you won’t find “soup craving” in any medical tomes on the symptoms of the common cold, but you will find soup in just about every culture as a way to alleviate the symptoms. I guess all these years of treating a cold with Chicken Noodle Soup has just led my body to immediately crave the cure. Since I love soup, I’m actually a bit happy to have an excuse to eat a lot of it for the next few days. So far I’ve tried a new vegan version of my favorite butternut squash soup, a cup of kale and white bean soup from the market, and miso soup.



All were wonderful and hit the spot. But truth be told, I only really made the butternut squash soup; the miso soup was from a box, to which I added some enoki mushrooms, firm silken tofu, and spinach leaves. It was very good and felt very cleansing and healthful, so I recommend it if you, too, are suffering from a cold and don’t feel like doing much of anything.

But if you’re a bit hungrier and want something more substantial, then it is butternut squash soup you want. You may not know you want it, but trust me, you do. At least I do, and I make it all the time. There was a period last year, after our little squash plant went crazy and we had a big basket of butternuts in the pantry, when I was making soup weekly and eating the leftovers for lunch several days a week. It got to the point that my husband requested I not make it for awhile. He likes to come home and eat my leftovers when he works nights, and it turns out that weeks on end of butternut squash soup got to be a bit much for him.



So you may want to just start with making this once, then again in a few weeks if it’s a hit, and then go from there. Maybe you’ll become as obsessive as I am, or maybe it’ll be a once a year type of dish for you. Either way, you’ll want it in your repertoire.



The version here is a super-garlicky one, but since the garlic is roasted it has a nice, soft, sweet flavor. I roasted whole cloves along with the peeled and cubed butternut squash, all tossed with olive oil and salt and pepper. The smell was divine, and I couldn’t help but snack on a few bites straight from the oven. In fact, if you were feeling lazy, at this point you could nix the soup and just eat the roasted squash. Or even better, double the garlic and roast two squashes: one for soup and one for a side dish, one for now and one for later. Why, oh why, didn’t I think of this when I was making it? Oh well, I guess I’ll just have to do this again next weekend. Sorry honey, butternut soup’s for dinner…again.

Garlicky Roasted Butternut Squash Soup

What I hate worst about most butternut squash soup recipes is that they call for an exact amount of squash, and who actually sits there weighing vegetables and converting that to the number of cups it will yield while they’re in the middle of grocery shopping? Not me. I’ve purposefully left this a bit vague for you so you can use whatever size squash you have on hand. When you are picking squash, choose one that is heavy for it’s size; it will be the sweetest and most flavorful. If you only have itty bitty ones to choose from, then maybe grab two or three so you can make a decent amount of soup. The other ingredients will need to adjust based on how much squash you have, but I promise it is a forgiving cooking method and will still taste great.

1 butternut squash, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes (my squash was about 3 pounds and yielded about 9 cups, cubed)
1 head of garlic, whole cloves, peeled
1 medium onion, diced
1 tablespoon fresh sages leaves, or more to taste
3 tablespoons olive oil, divided, more as needed
¾ cup white wine
3-4 cups vegetable stock
Salt and pepper to taste
Freshly grated nutmeg to taste (I used 10-12 grates)
Green scallion rings for garnish, optional

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Toss squash and garlic cloves with 2 tablespoons of oil and a pinch of salt and a few grinds of pepper. If there is not enough oil to coat, add a bit more. Spread evenly on a baking sheet and roast until the squash is tender, turning once or twice so it doesn’t burn, about 45 minutes to an hour. A little browning of the squash is fine and adds wonderful flavor.

When the squash is almost done or is finished, heat the remaining tablespoon of olive oil in a heavy bottomed stock pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion, sage, a few grates of fresh nutmeg, and a pinch of salt and pepper, and sauté until it is translucent. Add the wine and increase heat so the wine begins to reduce. When it is reduced by half, stir in the squash and garlic, and cover with vegetable stock, about 2-3 cups. Let simmer for 5-10 minutes until the squash starts to fall apart.

Using an immersion blender or working in batches in a regular blender, puree until smooth. Return to pan, and add more stock as needed to thin the soup to desired consistency. Taste, and re-season with salt and pepper as needed. Garnish with green scallion rings, and serve with a piece of whole grain toast and a green salad.

Fall

It’s been a little while since I’ve been here, and I’m sorry about that. I’ve been on vacation and then had a busy week of work, and I’ve really missed the writing and the thinking and planning that come along with it. I’m feeling a bit rusty, but happy to be back at the page.



Vacation was a trip home to Colorado, and it was wonderful to see friends and family, and enjoy some beautiful Fall weather. Fall is my favorite season in Colorado, and I think others would agree. I love the crisp air and the fresh smell it brings, as if the heavy-scented heat has been blown away. I love the turning leaves, especially when they are at that point of just turning from green to gold.



I love the blue skies, the need for a sweater, and I love the return of heartier food. I was able to revel in all of this for one week. The best part was returning to Texas, where Fall is starting to make a tentative appearance.



Part of my love of Fall is the food. There is the lingering summer produce as well as all of the start of cool weather crops: beautiful winter squashes, dark greens, Brussels sprouts and cauliflower. All of the things I’ve been secretly waiting for while delighting in tomatoes and eggplant and zucchini. It’s not just that I love to eat squash, but there is something so comforting about roasting a vegetable, letting the flavors really develop, and then sitting down to dinner. By this time of year it’s dark again at dinner time, and a warm meal and a glass of wine inside feels like being wrapped securely in a blanket.



I also love braised meats at this time of year, but that will have to wait a few weeks. I’m doing a 40 day Vegan diet in conjunction with a 40 day Yoga Challenge through Yoga Yoga in Austin. So, for the next month or so we won’t have any meat, seafood or dairy on these pages. I know, it’s a bit scary at first, but I promise that still leaves lots and lots of recipes. Just this weekend I made a big batch of watermelon gazpacho, possibly the last truly summery dish of the year, and it is so fresh and flavorful that I’ll probably have to share this one with you at some point. I’ve also enjoyed some of the first roasted Delicata squash of fall; bridging two seasons of produce will make this so enjoyable. I’m also considering an experiment with making crisps and pies without butter, just shortening. I have a lot of research still to come, but I don’t even think I’ll have to do without baking during this cleanse. So far, I’m excited about all there is to make and not feeling at all deprived. And in a month, I'll be ready to delve into a different side of cold weather fare.



So, here is a toast to Fall, to fresh air and fresh food, and to a few new challenges to keep you grounded.